Purls

Onwards!

ButeFinally some knitting on my blog! This is my swatch for Bute - the lovely cardigan from Rowan magazine 52.

I have completely changed the colour scheme - more on which in a second - but this swatch is all the Bute I am going to knit right now. It will be my reward knit for meeting all the deadlines I have looming over my head. Carrot time!

What deadlines?

As you may know I am doing the Old Maiden Aunt Autumn yarn club. I am currently knitting the last sample, then the patterns go out to be tech-edited and I'll be doing a photo shoot mid-September. I am busy also doing work for a well-known UK knitting magazine which has a tight deadline. I am caught in a perfect storm of fun patten writing and sample knitting. I wouldn't want it any other way.

I am just pleased that all the last months' hard work will slowly be trickling its way out to the general public, so you don't all think I am been a complete slacker. As I keep saying: "I am still knitting - honestly!" and now I'll be able to prove it!

(And I know people are going to be asking about the Doggerland collection. I am also working on the second sample for that right now, so expect something to happen relatively soon - of course 'relatively soon' now means something completely different in my vocabulary than in yours, but Doggerland is very much a part of all this hard work. In fact, I just solved a rather nagging design problem the other day).

Bute will be my reward for all this hard work. It is going to be a real treat to sit down with somebody else's pattern and just relax into the knitting rather than always constantly think which is what I am doing when I knit my own samples and swatches.

So, yes, I changed the colours of Bute and I am going to tweak them a tiny bit more. Here is how I went about changing the colourscheme.

  • I took the original colours and arranged them on a table so I could really look at them
  • I assigned each colour a value: "the pale base colour" - "the dark base colour" - "the zingy contrast" - "the highlighter" etc.
  • Essentially I tried to imagine the given colours in greyscale.
  • I also tried to figure out what function they have within the colour scheme.
  • Then I decided what I wanted from my colour scheme. The original Bute was very earthy and warm. I wanted a cool tone with hints of frost.
  • Then I set about going "this is the pale base tone. It is a warm camel colour. What would be a cool, pale base tone?" and that's when I decided to use the Clay colour as the basis. I was aided a tiny bit by Rowan having done another version of Bute although I eventually deviated hugely from that colour scheme too.
  • The hardest bits were using the "highlighter" and "zingy contrast" - for the highlighter, I actually ended up using a cool pink ("Peony") although I am not a pink person. The design just calls for a sharp colour to just add interest here and there - and the pink will bring out the purples and fuchsia undertones in other colour colours. It is all about looking at how the colours relate to each other in the design.

My last tweak will be to swap the teal and the dark purple in the swatch. I was really tired last night when I knitted the swatch and I forgot my original plan. Still, it looks really nice and I cannot wait to get started.

And that, my friend, is just a handful of deadlines away. Off to knit some more. I swear I look forward to unveiling all of these sekrit things.

Careful With Words

Twitter sometimes gets a reputation for being Celebrity Central, but I frequently manage to have interesting conversations with people despite the 140-character cut-off.

Yesterday we discussed women's self-image and societal pressure to emphasise external over internal qualities. We covered a lot of ground: eating disorders, women's self-enforced ignorance as a feminist issue (Ellie's line and it's a great one), patriarchal/matriarchal gender politics and much more. Mooncalf pointed out that we should not conflate ignorance with body obsession. Miss M. wrote eloquently about how body image and a need to take control could collide. Later same night I logged back into Twitter to find a whole other discussion about women's bodies was taking place. It was a discussion I found downright scary by its very ignorance of how women's bodies actually work.

I think it is time to quietly take back that whole discussion about women's rights and women's bodies. I really enjoyed the thoughtful discussion I had on Twitter with other women (and one man) but I think we should be having that discussion off-line too. It is not a call to arms - I am not the militant sort - but it is a plea that we keep having these discussions, we keep having them in public and that we keep challenging everyday sexism. Odd how it can still be a revelation to some that women are people too.

Phew. It felt good to get that off my chest.

I will now return to my fluffy little world of trying to make stripe patterns align and figuring out why I suddenly cannot make PDF files with my word-processing programmes. Here are a few random links for your everyday perusal:

Autumn/Winter 2012 Knitting. Phew.

It is mid-August and my world is calming down considerably. Late July and early August will always be a busy time for me (this is when all the new autumn/winter yarns and patterns arrive in this part of the world) and I had additional knitting deadlines this year. Well, most of the deadlines have been met - I dreamt of stitch pattern repeats one memorable night - and I can begin to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Huzzah! (While I remember, I have started a Ravelry group called Karie Bookish Knits. I have so much in the pipeline that it makes sense to have a group. I guess. Okay, I am quite nervous about it all, but there you go. I am silly sometimes. Go join if you are interested.)

So, what have been my favourites this season launch?

Debbie Bliss is launching a Blue-Faced Leicester Aran which is very lovely with a good range of muted colours. The yarn reminds me a bit of Texere's own brand BFL Aran but the yardage is slightly different. Again, the pattern support doesn't work for my body shape but there are tonnes of excellent patterns available for aran-weight yarn already. The yarn is spun in the UK - I'd be interested in learning if the fibres are from the UK too.

I was really pleasantly surprised by Rowan Kidsilk Haze Trio which comprises of three strands of Kidsilk Haze twisted together. I think Trio is meant to replace the now discontinued Rowan Kidsilk Aura (an aran-weight version of Kidsilk Haze) but it has a much better handle and drape than Aura. Trio looked quite hairy, but once knitted it felt and looked much silkier than I expected. The RRP is quite steep, but it comes out cheaper than buying three balls of Kidsilk Haze, so there is method to the madness. The pattern support plays with Trio's drape in oversized, casual garments. My body shape doesn't lend itself to oversized, casual garments, alas, but Trio looks like the kind of yarn that I could see Kim Hargreaves going for.

Also, the new Rowan magazine is my favourite Rowan magazine in ages. I want to make pretty much everything in there: Orkney, Skye (in a modified lady version), Tobermory, Shannon, Lundy, Ruby, Addison, Harbour Bag (free to download!) and Lewis (also free!). But I am going to start out with the Bute cardigan and my colours will be slightly different. My local John Lewis has the original cardigan on display right now and although I adore its muted greens and browns,  I will be knitting my Bute in shades of grey, white, purple and teal.

Online there has been a new Twist Collective, a new Knitty, a Cookie A garment book(!), and probably a dozen other things I haven't caught because I have been busy. Knitty is strong on socks this time which is a shame as I am not a sock knitter. I adore Cookie A's Radial shrug which is all sculptural and quirky. Predictably enough, I really like Amy Christoffers' colourwork pullover for Twist as well as Elizabeth Doherty's classy Tenaya cardigan. My favourite Twist pattern, though, is the Fortune Bay pullover with its very contemporary take on a striped pullover.

Trends? Quirky colourwork (quite traditional but with contemporary tweaks); lots of stripes in all sort of contexts; we are definitely moving away from the "buttoned at top, A-line" patterns towards unusual, but fitted (or super-oversized) shapes; a lot of marled or semi-solid yarns; traditional arans are still going but again designers are offering tweaked, contemporary versions.

Phew. And I haven't even seen everything this season has to offer just yet! More yarns and patterns are due to arrive..

Are any of you starting to plan your autumn knitting yet? Or are you still working away on unfinished Ravellenic Games projects (London 2012 was fabulous - I thought - apart from the closing ceremony)? I have a few more things to finish before I can start my Bute cardigan, but it is so nice to see all the new yarns and patterns. Although I have been stressed these past few weeks, this is really my favourite time of the knitting year.

Florence & Molly

The start of August is always the busiest time of year for me and this year is no exception. The yarn companies are beginning to launch their Autumn-Winter collections with new patterns and yarns galore - and as a result I have a thousand thingsto keep my head and hands busy. I hope to have a more in-depth look at some of my favourites soon - but before I can play favourites, I need some time to breathe and gather my thoughts. To tide things over, I thought I would share a free pattern with you.

I designed the Florence scarf last summer at the request of a well-know British department store. It takes one ball of Rowan Kidsilk Haze, it is a good introduction to knitting with fine mohair yarns, and it would make a good 'first lace project'. The scarf was very popular with the store and I thought it might also prove popular with others. I think of it as a quiet design, if that makes sense.

There are more designs to come, but I'll write about those as they get released.

In case you want something more worthwhile to read than my moans about work, my good friend* Molly Templeton has gone viral (as the kids say) with coverage ranging from Jezebel to The Atlantic Wire. Why? Molly took issue with the cover of The New York Times Book Review. It had a How-To issue in which men wrote about a wide range of topics and the ladies got to write about how to raise children and how to cook. In the words of Ms M.:

 There is nothing wrong with cooking and raising children; there are lots of things right and wonderful with these pursuits. They are also, as I’m sure I don’t need to tell you, traditionally female tasks, and when you take into consideration the VIDA stats, the history of gender imbalance in literature and journalism and the world at large, you might find yourself a little frustrated by the fact that it’s 2012 and we are still too often relegated to writing about deeply gendered topics. (Of the 18 bylined reviews and essays in the issue, five are by women.)

And so Molly decided to start The How To Tumblr which features women writing how-to articles about anything and everything under the sun.This is her call for contributions:

I’m sure there’s something you know how to do. I’m sure there are things your many brilliant friends know how to do, or something you could write about that has to do with doing a thing (most of the NYTBR pieces were, of course, book reviews). I would like to read the essays, reviews, comics, lists and more we, and they, could write in this vein -  irreverent, funny, heartbreaking, ironic, wry, snarky, sweet, clever, brilliant, silly, and everything else.

Inevitably, Molly's tumblr has turned out a whole host of fun, insightful and interesting essays . You can contribute too - Molly's project is open to women and those who identify as genderqueer/not of a binary gender.

(* how good? Handknitted-present-good!)

Some Thoughts On Intellectual Property

Recently I have had a series of discussion with people on the topic of paying for patterns and respecting intellectual property. These people include Alison Crowther-Smith, Kate Davies, Sarah Hatton and Helen of RipplesCrafts - and as you can imagine, these ladies had very interesting things to say on the topic (and you can see Alison's thoughts in her link). I also followed a Ravelry thread with some interest; it was called "What patterns do you resent having to pay for?" and was a meandering debate on having to pay for uninteresting patterns in knitting magazines. And then there was the Danish blog I stumbled across which was somewhat laissez-faire about offering to translate paid patterns and distributing them for free. It all made me want to sit down and write a blog post about how I see it as a knitter, as a small-scale designer, and as someone who works for a yarn company.

Today I have been sitting for two hours charting a colourwork hat. Once I am done charting, I have two different set of decreased crowns to swatch before I can sit down to knit up the sample, block it, set up a photo shoot, do some post-shoot colour correction in PhotoScape, and then I will sit down to write a pattern. Normally I would then do pattern support for knitters who are unsure about charts or who need help finding a yarn substitute. If it sounds like work, it is because it is work.

Would I be upset if people started distributing one of my pattern for free? I would. Not only would it mock the amount of hours I put into a pattern, but it would also have real-life consequences in form of unpaid bills. That is right: I rely upon my design work to pay bills. It is a job, after all.

Stephanie Pearl-McPhee had a great blog post last year in which she wrote about knitting as work and the need to combat attitudes like "Knitting isn't an industry that needs to be taken seriously. Knitting is fun, and nice and so are knitters". Her reply deserves a highlighted quote:

I think most of you like to be paid for your work, besides, people do better work when they're paid.  The exchange of money for time and effort is a good way to make sure that people have the time and attention to do a good job, and you know what makes knitting more fun? Patterns with fewer errors because a proper test knitter did a good job.

As for the seriousness of the knitting industry, I don't really see how you can imagine that there aren't a lot of people taking it seriously.  I bet your local yarn shop owner takes it super seriously, right around the time he/she has to pay the rent.  I bet yarn companies (big and small) take it seriously too.  You know who else? Designers, test knitters, tech editors... all those people take it really seriously.  For you it might be a hobby, but for a lot of people trying to support their families in this industry it would be amazing if most of us could at least agree that there could be and should be an idea of what jobs are worth what money.

This is also why I do not resent sock patterns or baby cardigans appearing in a knitting magazine. I may have indirectly paid for these patterns although I will never knit them - but I will also indirectly have kept a dozen of people in work because I paid £5 for a magazine with 15 patterns. Employment is cool.

Three times a week I work for a yarn company. I meet a lot of knitters and 99% of them are cool, fun, sweet and fabulous. Unfortunately I do meet a tiny, tiny handful of people who refuse to pay for patterns, who demand that I photocopy from a book for them, and who tear out pages of a pattern book.

I always try to explain why I cannot photocopy a pattern and why a pattern typically costs £3 - I believe it is as much about education as anything - but my brain cannot process why anyone would vandalise a book by tearing pages out of them, let alone risk getting in trouble with the police because - rest assured - security personnel will get the police out if you are caught. It is a knitting pattern. You are destroying private property because of a knitting pattern. This is not about a lack of knowledge - this is wilful theft.

Knitters love to talk about 'handmade' and 'slow fashion' and 'shop locally' - why not include 'valuing intellectual property' (though it needs to sound snappier). I don't want to start a discussion about copyright because every country is different (and, in some cases local copyright laws were written in response to antiquated technologies and are in dire need of being updated). I would, however, like to open a discussion about best practices, about moral obligations, and about communal education.

In fact, I would love to read your blog post about this.