A Visit from the Knitting Police, or, On the Origins of Things

Yesterday I was working on the second sleeve of my Orkney cardigan when the following exchange happened.

Passer-by: Hey, what are you doing? Me: Oh, I'm working on this fair-isle cardigan.. Passer-by: Oh no! That's not fair-isle. You are not from Shetland. You cannot be knitting fair-isle. I am from Shetland and I am telling you that you cannot work fair-isle. Me: .. uhmm, okay?

This led to an interesting discussion on Twitter about geographical locations, if any non-Shetlanders are allowed to say their stranded colourwork is fair-isle (and if it is fair isle, Fair Isle or Fair-Isle) and if we are able to talk about "traditional knitting" at all. Here are some selected highlights:

@kariebookish "Being from" is surely not a thing for trademark purposes? Cf Harris Tweed which *is* protected by law: http://t.co/6AfGtVoyuO

— Norbert Roomboter (@vonbladet) March 11, 2014

(Great point! Can a technique or motif be geographically trademarked?) Some snarky comments from amused knitters:

@kariebookish Does that also mean that non-Norwegians can't do Norwegian purl?

— Christina (@stinaest) March 11, 2014

@kariebookish Better throw out my shaw with nupps in it since I'm not Estonian.

— Vanessa (@MMAAC) March 11, 2014

@kariebookish so what should all of us non-shetlanders call the technique, given that we probably outnumber shetlanders #nomorefairisle

— Vickie Glynn (@VicksG) March 11, 2014

@kariebookish @VivienneU Or people who live there but weren't born there? What's the minimum number of generations?

— Kate Heppell (@KateHeppell) March 11, 2014

And, finally, less snarkily and more to the point:

@kariebookish fixing of traditions being largely a marketing device that contradicts the approach of the knitters who developed them — Ysolda Teague (@ysolda) March 12, 2014

I am interested in the socio-political aspects of so-called traditional knitting: there is definitely a discussion to be had about what constitutes a tradition - who decides something is a tradition - and if we can talk about origins at all. Motifs and techniques have criss-crossed geographical boundaries and what we may think of as "traditional knitting" may only date back to the early 20th century. My personal view is that all these things only tend to be "fixed" in time and place long after actual innovation has occurred - and that many of these "fixes" have little to do with the actual innovations and more to do with money/prestige.

It's a fascinating topic and I wish I had a fresh mind with which to tackle it (alas, I am writing this after working all day on another piece of writing). I'll keep knitting my Orkney, mind. Only half a sleeve to go and I refuse to leave it alone despite my personal geographical failings.

Sad Announcement re. Teaching Obligations Spring 2014

Just a little heads-up that I have unfortunately been forced to cancel most of my teaching obligations this Spring.

I continue to have major problems with my left knee following an accident in January. Quite simply, I find it very difficult and painful to walk at the moment.

The only time I will be teaching this spring will be Sunday, March 16 at Be Inspired Fibres in Edinburgh where I’ll be running a class on Beginning Crochet for Knitters.

I hope to have bounced back in time for a full autumnal programme (look out for a full schedule at a new, exciting Scottish workshop space) and I’ll also be running my classes at Unwind, Brighton in July - but everything else is cancelled.

Apologies for disappointing those of you who have been asking me about class schedules etc. I would love nothing better than to run my customary full run of classes, but it's just not possible.

The Cardigan is Finally Finished: Bute

According to my notebook, I started knitting Bute in August 2012. I finally finished yesterday. It is a strange project: I certainly did not spend 18 months working on this cardigan and the result bears very little resemblance to what I had in my head when I started out. First the facts:

Pattern: Bute by Lisa Richardson from Rowan Magazine 52.

Yarn: Rowan Colourspun and Rowan Felted Tweed (both the suggested yarns) in Scunner, Winterburn (Colourspun) + Clay, Watery, Bilberry, Carbon and Peony (Felted Tweed).

Needles: 3.25mm and 4mm.

Size: M.

Modifications: I started out by changing the colours. I do not suit the autumnal colours of the original nor do I like the blue/yellow feel of the men's version (it's a bit too Swedish flag, really). I went down a size having tried on a shop sample. Then I chopped off a repeat of the body. I omitted the reverse sticking stitch on the shoulders.

Verdict: I loved knitting this (except when I had to reknit the front due to my own sizing mistake). I loved putting it together. I am just not sure it suits me.

Firstly, I should have gone down to size S(!) despite being on-gauge. The garment is very generously sized and it is much too big on me. Look at how the sleeve billows around my lower arm in the photo. Part of the problem is that I have lost weight since I began knitting the cardigan, but I have not lost that much weight.

I have had to chop off two inches on the shoulders - the original pattern has a mild drop-shoulder effect but the shoulders were halfway down my upper arms. I am so very glad I chopped off a repeat on the body as it would have been more like a coat than a cardigan. I hope no one will ask to look at the shoulder seams after my vaguely botched surgery session with first an overlocker (which seemed like a good idea at the time) and then a crochet hook.

The sleeves are superlong too - not quite to schematic and I wish I had twigged this beforehand so I could have added a thumb hole!

Secondly, I have since learned valuable lessons about knitting garments with shape. I am a pesky hourglass shape which means I need garments to nip in at my waist or I'll drown. The Bute pattern is not to blame for my lack of self-awareness - it is just a shame that I feel a bit frumpy and enormous in the garment.

Thirdly, I do love how warm this is. I have not been cold once since I started wearing this. I may need to knit myself a fair-isle onesie in Rowan Felted Tweed (okay, maybe not) or maybe a pair of fair-isle socks (more likely). Luckily my mate Jem Weston has a pattern for a pair of very fetching fair-isle socks in the same magazines and I might make my remnants stretch for that. Hmmmm..

Lessons learned: if you try on a shop sample size XS and it's almost perfect, disregard the voices in your head and go for size S (even if you haven't been size S since primary school).

I really enjoyed knitting the "peerie" patterns and I can see myself using the stitch patterns in another project - but this time with waist-shaping.

And can I knit everything in Felted Tweed from now on? It is my new favourite yarn (fact: this is my sixth FT project in a row).

Hey! It's a Doggerland KAL with Prizes!

We only have two Doggerland patterns left to go, so while I get those ready, I thought it would be fun to set up a Doggerland KAL in my Ravelry group. We've been having a sort of unofficial-official KAL since the first pattern was released, but I thought it'd be fun to add prizes to the unofficial-official KAL (thus making it an official-official KAL?). I just confused myself.

The basics: Knit a Doggerland project, post a photo in the official Doggerland KAL thread, and you can win yourself a yarny prize! On April 15, 2014, I'll draw random names and THREE lucky people will win prizes.

More basics: For every finished project, you get ONE token. The official KAL tag is "DoggerlandKAL". You can enter as many times as you'd like.

The relevant patterns are all from the Doggerland collection - they are available individually as well as a collection. You have the choice of Ronaes, Hoxne, Gillean Hat, Gillean Wristies, Ythan and Vedbaek. Any additional Doggerland patterns released before April 15, 2014 are also eligible.

Please note: if you have knitted any of the patterns knitted above - please post a photo of your finished object on the thread and tag your project. You can enter as many projects as you'd like into this KAL contest. I'll draw names at random - winner A, winner B and winner C.

Which brings me to the fun bit. The prizes! I did think about sourcing Mesolithic lithics (worked pieces of flint) but I wasn't too sure about the ethics of removing pieces from public access. Also, I think you knitters prefer yarn. Right? Right.

Prizes!

Winner A will win a skein of Snældan 2ply from The Island Wool Company. Seriously gorgeous yarn - it is one of my favourites - and once you start knitting with it, you won't believe the drape or feel.

Winner B will win a skein of Håndværker yarn from Hjeltholt Yarns, an artisan Danish yarn spinning mill dating back to 1878. It is the type of yarn I just love: full of depth and texture. Håndværker yarn is currently only available to a select few Scandinavian retailers, so it's a rare chance to get your hands on proper heritage artisan yarn. (I cannot believe I'm letting this go)

Winner C will win a £15 gift certificate to Old Maiden Aunt yarns. One of the best UK hand-dyers and a gift certificate means you get to choose your own favourite yarn base and colour!

Recap: Knit a Doggerland project, post a photo in the official Doggerland KAL thread, and you can win yourself a yarny prize!

On an Adventure with Knitters

This past weekend I packed my bags and went on an adventure. We went through Glen Croe..

.. which is part of the Loch Lomond & Trossach National Park. We passed Rest and Be Thankful, the most famous peak in the Arrochar Alps before locating a small pottery studio (complete with Badger the Border Collie) on the banks of Loch Long.

We eventually made it to our cottage on the shores of Loch Fyne. This is the actual view from the living room window. Not a bad view for a dreich February day.

And this was the view from the kitchen. Scottish Blackface sheep keeping a watchful eye on us. They were slightly less fond of the chickens roaming the fields. I liked the chickens. They reminded me of my childhood when my gran kept chickens. Also: fresh eggs from the landlady!

We didn't get a chance to sample any Loch Fyne seafood - but I did accidentally kill a mollusc when I tried to throw it back into the sea at low tide. The colours were amazing: rich browns, deep greens, and the most beautiful indigo blues. So many ideas in my head.

And I finished knitting my Bute - whilst being near Bute. Mattress stitching fair isle that incorporates purl stitch is not my favourite activity. It doesn't look as neat as I'd like but I don't think that's possible with this pattern. I also did a temporary stitching-together of the body and .. it is not the most flattering knit in the world. I may need to look into some post-knitting waist-shaping. I do love the colours and the yarn. It's been a great knit. I just think I need to think about the shape of my garments more than I have done in the past.

After a long, relaxing weekend in the most beautiful lochside cottage you can imagine, it was time to head home. A landslide had closed the Glen Croe road and so we were looking at either a 70-miles detour north via Oban or hop on a ferry from Dunoon. This Dane still marvels at how the Scottish landscape thwarts attempts to tame it: the road across the Arrochar Alps is really the only way to access the entire Argyll & Bute peninsula by car and the road is plagued by constant landslides. We opted for the ferry which gave us a few comedy moments..

.. but I had a lovely time with some of the best people I know. I can certainly recommend a knitting retreat as a good way of restoring cheerfulness and well-being (my leg is slowly getting better and the main issues are now fatigue & stamina.).

It will not be the last time we do this.

Yellowed

If you follow me on Twitter, you will know that I am currently obsessing over yellow cardigans. I think it is a reaction to the winter weather we have been having. Glasgow has escaped much of the awful weather to hit Britain recently but standard Glasgow winter weather is awfully bleak. It is changeable but always some combination of rain + wind + sleet. Dreaming of yellow cardigan is thus the perfect antidote to the gloomy skies outside. Yellow cardigans and cups of tea. I am a few rows away from finishing The Thing I mentioned the other day. My plans include a hefty amount of swatching for new designs but then I am going to snuggle down and do some finishing.

I finished knitting all the pieces for my Bute cardigan in late 213 but then I realised I had knitted the two front two different sizes. In my defence, I did cast on for the second front whilst working in a yarn shop so all the chatter obviously went to my head. How I did not realise my mistake when I got to the shaping at the top, I will never know. So, my plan for the weekend is to reknit the front of the cardigan. Blocking next, then sewing up and the button band. Can I finish this by the end of February? Probably not. It will take me forever to decide upon buttons.

I also want to finish knitting my Orkney cardigan (just a sleeve and a button band!) but Bute has been languishing for so long - and I really want to snuggle up in it.

Back to dreaming of yellow cardigans. I do have a cone of a beautiful mustard-yellow silk/wool aran-weight that I chanced upon some .. uhm .. four years ago. I rather like Traveller's End by the wonderful Carol Feller (classic, simple shape that'll let the yarn do the talking) but Cinnamon Girl by Amy Christoffers keeps catching my eye (I'm not sure the yarn has enough drape). Amy Herzog's Kittiwake follows in the , er, wake with its effortless cables - but I'd need to modify its shape to suit me. I do love Hallett's Ledge - so that is another contender.

Maybe I should focus on finishing Bute, then Orkney and then see where I am at with knitting deadlines. For all I know, we might be talking Easter and then yellow takes on a whole other meaning.